Bike Maintenance Routine

Here’s the full routine maintenance I do every three or four months, or sooner depending on how many kilometres I’m putting in at the time. On top of that, I lube the chain every 500-600 km, or whenever I notice it’s gone dry.

The most important part is the chain. It needs the most care, because a failure mid-trip can be really dangerous. The upside is that it’s easy to do: you only need two products, one to clean the chain and one to lubricate it. A few other things help, like a centre stand (or a paddock stand if you don’t have one).

If you don’t have a centre stand or paddock stand, you can ask someone to roll the wheel by hand while you hold the bike upright (or vice versa) so the chain keeps turning.

The routine

1. Prep: Take off the luggage and any accessories, and gather what you need: water, detergent, kerosene, and brushes/sponges.
2. Remove the grime: Dip a brush in kerosene and scrub the chain and the area around it to loosen the dirt.
3. Wash: Clean the rest of the bike with detergent and a sponge.
4. Rinse: Hose it down to wash off the detergent and any leftover dirt.
5. Dry and lube: Let the bike dry, then apply lubricant along the whole chain, ideally on the inner side. Let it sit for about 10 minutes before riding so it doesn’t fling off.

Chain slack

Measure the difference between the chain’s highest and lowest point as you push it up and pull it down by hand, at the middle of the lower run. Compare that with the figure in your manual and adjust as needed. A slightly loose chain is better than an over-tight one. Too tight strains the bearings and sprockets.

Brake and engine oil

Two fluids worth a quick look while you’re at it.

Brake fluid. Each brake has its own small reservoir: the front one sits on the handlebar, the rear usually behind a panel near the rear master cylinder. With the bike upright and the reservoir level, check the fluid is between the MIN and MAX marks. It should look clear and light; if it’s dark, it’s due for a change. A low level often means the brake pads are worn, so check those too. Only ever top up with the DOT grade printed on the cap.

Engine oil. Stand the bike upright on level ground, not on the side stand. Run the engine for a minute, switch it off, and wait two or three minutes for the oil to settle. Then read the level: through the sight glass it should sit between the marks; with a dipstick, wipe it clean, rest it on the threads without screwing it in, and see where the oil reaches. Top up with the grade your manual specifies if it’s low.

Tyre pressure

Check the pressures with a gauge while the tyres are cold, before a ride or after only a short distance. Use the values from your manual or the sticker on the chain guard or swingarm, not the maximum stamped on the tyre itself. Adjust as needed, and while you’re down there look the tyres over for wear, cracks, or anything stuck in the tread.